Our Big Fat Family Roadtrip...continued

First stop New Delhi...

With its magnanimous architecture, wide sweeping streets, tree lined avenues and history that spans millennia; Delhi is a city not to be rushed. And I haven't even mentioned the glorious food or the many markets crammed into its alleyways. Unfortunately, exploring Delhi was not part of our wanderlust; it would need to wait for another time. Also, I found myself inadequately prepared for all the questions that were bound to arise from the facts of the British ruling over India and its subservient and sometimes brutal past. Wish Horrible Histories would publish a book about the CommonWealth nations. However that did not stop us from quick curio collection on Baba Khadak Singh Marg. Now this street is my most favourite part of Delhi simply because it houses cottage industry shops of almost all states of India. So if you are looking for stamped leather from Andhra Pradesh or Gond Paintings of Madhya Pradesh or slate homeware from Nagaland, this is the place. Another favourite jaunt is the Dilli Haat (bazaar or market) where crafters and artisans are promoted to sell their wares through stalls. This is a great place to buy textiles especially luxurious woollens from the foothills of the Himalayas.

 

Our Caravan sets off...

After the quickest ever stop in New Delhi, our bags are loaded into the cars for the first leg of our roadtrip - Agra and Mathura. While we were planning the trip there was a whole lot of hullabaloo around World's eight wonders of the Modern Age - if you recollect we were even asked to vote for our preferences. Our little boy was so amazed that India, with its dying and the downtrodden, could actually have a modern age wonder. The Taj needed a definite visit. Entering Agra gives an ominous feeling because I have to admit it is not the cleanest city. It is densely congested and there is only one rule on the road - chaos. However as you get near the Taj everything changes rapidly, thanks to its UNESCO status. You are promptly escorted to a parking area where there are just a couple of jewellery sellers who are not in the least overbearing. There are horse carriages or electric cars to take you from the parking to the ticket booth. Funnily, you aren't allowed to carry chocolate inside, so instead of throwing away the 6 bars of Dairy Milk we found ourselves stuffing our faces with them.

 

The Taj itself is a glorious monument. It is a reflection of the art of the possible. It was very helpful to get a guide (extremely fluent in English) to explain not only the architecture but the social, political and historical context of its construction. The romance around its build is still just as strong but there is a ruthless hint in its construction as well. I found the lattice work in marble and the coloured inlay work most fascinating. To think this was all hand chiselled and there were no lathes to help the artisans still gives me goose bumps. The sprawling formal gardens and the synchronised fountains add to its glory. It sits on the banks of the river Yamuna which has been dramatically cleansed through years of effort of local agencies. A reflective pause on the viewing gallery gives you just enough time to imagine yourself dressed in Mughal finery being serenaded by peacocks while the sun dips over the Yamuna.

 

Magical Mathura...

Mathura has always been a popular religious destination where Lord Krishna (a beloved god in Indian mythology) spent his formative years. We've grown up listening to stories of his triumphs over evil demons who came in various guises and his mischievous tricks on the people of his village. He was adored by all despite his stealing butter and blaming his friends or bringing chaos on his loved ones while he took care of the bad guys. Visiting Mathura was a different experience for each one of us - parents overwhelmed by the sanctity of the place bowing down their heads in respect; me finally being able to put the stories of childhood in context, our little boy thinking how cool it was to jump into the river to fight a snake, or bash the demons guised as a bull or a donkey. However, the trance was short lived as religion in India is an industry. So be wary of the many many priests in this region who will pray on your behalf to the god almighty for blessings at a price. Naturally, you are gullible and at your most vulnerable especially when roadtripping with your family so take a stand one way or the other... I am sure God will understand.

 

Royal Rajasthan...

We had planned a royal stay at the Jai Mahal (a Taj Palace hotel) in Jaipur, Rajasthan. August is Monsoon season in India and not exactly tourist hotbed so many hotels have promotional rates. Be sure to ask, because like us you could land a bargain. The Rajasthani people are renowned for their hospitality. They treat a guest in their house next to God himself and will ensure every whim and fancy is taken care of. This sums up our experience of the stay in Jai Mahal. The beautiful gardens have plenty to keep little ones engaged from tennis to croquet to swimming to live peacocks. Monsoon gave this hotel a mystical aura with rain drops glistening on the grass and mist shrouding the balconies. Of course, it poured by the buckets while we were there so we never made it to Amer Fort, of which I have nothing to write about (blah!!!). But it allowed us to retreat to a verandah of the hotel and eat steaming hot onion bhajis with sweetened tea. Jaipur's main market square is brimming with little boutique shop each specializing in its wares. So make sure to pick some lovely jewellery of handmade beads, embroidered kaftans and if you fancy even beetle nut in different flavours. To try out local cuisine you must visit Lakshmi Misthan Bhandar (or LMB as locally known). It is advisable to not go there raving hungry but it is a struggle to find seating immediately. Once you've jostled through the crowd and have got your breath back make sure to try their authentic thaali (which translates as one ginormous plate of delicious food).

 

Rajathan is well known for its crafts - be it wooden carvings or block prints or the retro tie and dye. I stumbled upon a little village just outside of Jaipur called Bagru, while doing my research on textiles. The artisans of the village have created a co-operative and work on a socialist method of distributing work between themselves. With the power of the internet they are reaching out to buyers directly thus increasing their reach and profit margins. They have also tied up with a university in USA for fellowship program in social enterprise and are being assisted by students of this program to further reach out to a global audience. I believe this to be an inevitable direction for artisans where embracing online channels will only lead to further development. But visiting this village to spend a day with the people with your roadtripping family was a whole different challenge. The journey was a constant drone of groans and moans. But once there, the enthusiasm of our hosts and an opportunity to actually learn block printing first hand proved a wonderful catalyst. This visit is highly recommended for everyone who loves their art and craft. They run guided tours of their village and conduct a block printing workshop - age no bar.

 

Jodhpur was the last stop on our road trip, but it was the grandest. Visting Mehrangarh Fort was a surreal experience. This fort is serious royalty. It rises, almost like Kryptonite, over a mountain and surveys all the land beneath. Its jagged contours project a harsh strength but it is a mere deception. Inside it lies a surprisingly gentle beauty which springs upon you almost unexpectedly as you turn a corner. The architecture is divine, in particular the special or khaas durbar of the king studded with coloured glass. The grandeur is unashamedly on display through the solid silver carriages and the jewel studded scabbards. As you walk through many passages in absolute awe of the age this fort represents you come into the ladies court. Here we found the private nursery of royal babies with latticed windows and stuffed toys where toddlers might have played pranks on their carers, oblivious to the gravity of their birth. I have often wondered how it must have felt being born in an era of kings and queens living in the grand quarters of this fort. I would have probably ended in one of those blue houses down in the valley of this grand fort, too poor to be invited inside...haah. Glad to be born now with travelholic genes where the kings and queens are long gone, but have left us an inheritance to explore.

 

 

Fascinating Dubai!

 Dubai with its ambitious projects has transformed itself from a humble fishing village to a modern bustling metropolis. Today, it is home to the biggest shopping malls, to the most luxurious hotels, to a host of manmade wonders and ample dose of glitz and glamour.  In a short trip, you can experience everything from a view from the iconic Burj Khalifa, the tallest skyscraper in the world to the awe-inspiring sand dunes, from luxurious residential districts to ancient houses and ultra-modern shopping malls to the traditional souks. If you are looking at going back in time, there are many attractions that give you a sneak peek into the Dubai of yesteryears, of life in the deserts of Arabia.

Make your way to one of the oldest residential areas of Dubai, Al Bastakiya. This historic district is unique with its narrow lanes and well-maintained traditional courtyard houses cooled by wind-towers called barjeel. Some of the local houses have been converted into museums to display the local heritage, culture and traditional. After a guided tour of the Heritage Village, be ready to be treated to Arabic tea, coffee and dates in one of those very houses. You can also choose to enjoy a traditional Arabic lunch or dinner at the Bastakiya.

On both sides of the Dubai Creek are some of the Souks, the Arabic Markets where all kinds of goods are bought, sold and exchanged. Of these the Gold Souk and Spice Souk are a must to visit. As soon as you enter the Gold Souk, you encounter a blinding glare from the gold and stones on display. This is what people around the world primarily recognised Dubai for-The City of Gold. With rows of bangles, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, armbands, waist bands and even tops, there are designs for every taste and for every pocket.  Then head towards a wonderfully different experience, the Spice Souk. It has narrow streets and an aroma so unique, it is like walking into another era. With stalls displaying spice laden sacks and the sellers being a chatty bunch there is a lot to experience and learn here, and some of the colourful spices and herbs can be surely packed for home.

A standing example of the openness of the Dubai culture is the Jumeriah Mosque, the only mosque in Dubai that is open to the public and dedicated to receiving non-Muslim guests. A focal point of the ‘Open Doors Open Minds’ program, it gives you the unique opportunity to learn about Emirati culture and religion in a relaxed, casual and open atmosphere.

A visit to Dubai is not considered complete without a trip to the Desert Safaris in Dubai. Desert Safari is full of fun, adventure and excitement where you feel the thrill of a roller coaster ride on the sand dunes in sturdy 4 wheel drive vehicles. When you reach the middle of the desert, watching the sun set over the yellow sand, with a gentle breeze and absolute silence brings a lot of peace and tranquility. If you would like a ride atop the Ship of the Desert, most tour operators arrange for the same for the Camel Safari too. At the end of the tour, you are welcomed into a traditional Beduin camp, typically decorated with fine cushions and covers, low sitting tables, soft bed and nicely built tents. Once in the camp you are served a delicious barbeque dinner, beside a blazing bonfire with bubbling Sheesha, and entertained by a traditional Belly dancer. For the stargazers, you cannot hope for a clearer sky.

The list is endless, there is something for each one of us in Dubai –a romantic evening on a Dhow cruise, or some rigorous sand skiing, or a family picnic by the beach or just shopping till you drop, Dubai has it all. It is Definitely Dubai.   

More than just Amsterdam!

The Netherlands may be perceived as a small country, with Amsterdam its capital known for its pulsing nightlife and open culture, but what is left to be discovered hidden away in smaller cities is a treasure of traditions. One can discover thousands of windmills, variety of cheese, Delft Blue earthenware, wooden shoes, network of canals and countless bicycles!

About an hour’s distance north of Amsterdam is The Zaanse Schans. As soon as you set foot in the area you are taken back to the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The landscape is dotted with authentic houses and brightly painted windmills, it seems to be straight out of a Van Gogh painting. This is the best place to experience traditional Holland. Of the thousand industrial windmills ever built along the banks of the river Zaan thirteen remain. Six can be found at the Zaanse Schans and are open to the public. The tours let you look at a working mill; you even get a chance to climb up onto the stage to take a closer look and make you contemplate on the power of wind. 

Holland is the largest exporter of cheese in the world, the most popular cheeses being Gouda and Edam. The cheese factory at Zaanse Schans is the ideal place to watch Gouda in the making. Enjoy the aroma, taste tens of varieties and take your pick to take back home. To experience the world of cheese, make a trip to Alkmaar in North Holland well-known for its traditional cheese market and the Cheese Museum. 

The Dutch and their clogs! The wooden shoes have had a long association and there are 25 traditional clog makers who like to demonstrate the profession of clog making. To watch a shoemaker carve clogs right in front of you visit the Wooden Shoe Workshop De Zaanse Schans, an art still in existence only because we tourists love to buy these traditional clogs. You can try on a pair; it is fun and quite comfortable too! A part of the workshop is a Museum with one of the largest and most beautiful collection of traditional wooden shoes.

Other attractions at Zaanse Schans are a historic shipyard, a pewter factory, a coopery, an age-old grocery store and its many museums showcasing traditional arts and crafts. 

Make your way to the quiet picturesque city of Delft, situated between Rotterdam and The Hague. In this university town, you could wander along the churches, canals, mansions and courtyard or better still, use the bicycle. It’s likely you’ll fall in love with the charms of this small, historic town. Delft is where the Royal Delft also known as ‘De Porceleyne Fles’ is situated, the last remaining factory that makes the world famous Delft Blue earthenware. To this day, it uses centuries-old traditions to make and paint the delftware by hand. The tour takes you through the factory where you can watch the painters meticulously working on the earthenware. There is a large collection of delft earthenware from the previous centuries as well as larger-than-life tile paintings for you to appreciate and admire. 

A trip to the Netherlands is incomplete without a cruise in Amsterdam’s famous canals. The 17^th century canal ring area, a part of the UNESCO World Heritage list, is a symbol of Amsterdam and is of great cultural and historical value, the city seems to draw its beauty and charm from these canals itself.  In the hour long cruise, you can take a long look at the famed canal houses, house boats and many bridges. If you have the time you can also walk alongside the canals and you wouldn’t know how time passes by in this Venice of the North.

There is so much tradition in Netherlands may it be the clothes, food, drinks, crafts and art; so make your own discoveries! 

Our Big Fat Family Roadtrip









My son was born in India but is being raised in the UK. Unfortunately, his impression of India was largely formed of dehydrated or mal-nourished children who desperately need charitable aid as being constantly implored by the thousands of ads on television. It is a truth he encounters every time he visits India to see grandparents almost immediately after landing in Mumbai.

 

But I have always believed that it is only fair to show him the other half, the half of kings and queens, of grand palaces and castles, of craftsmanship and culture which nestles proudly in the heart of the country, albeit a little lost now in the veil of masses of people and poverty.

 

How would you make a lasting impression on a 6 year old? Take him to see the Taj Mahal... ofcourse! And why not add a couple of Rajasthan palaces and a pit stop in the land of Lord Krishna? Even better if you convince your entire family to join you on this mega road trip? It wasn't going to be easy with age range of 6 to 60+ who had never previously spent hours in a claustrophobically small space of a car. Not to mention the varied mental stages of a hyper active little boy, temperamental aunt and mom, uncle who was contemplating going back to school, dad who hates traffic and chaos, granddad who was nearing retirement and grandma who invariably acted as peace keeping force between all these highly volatile factions.

 

Before I detail the places we visited, a quick thought for all the parents doing road trips with young children. If you don't want them feeling nauseous by watching portable TVs or playing on gadgets while in the car, here are a few of our favourite games.

1. Guess who (20 questions if you recollect playing it) - in this case ofcourse there is no limit to the questions. We love playing this with sports people especially footballers since there are atleast five leagues of European football that we follow ardently

2. Name Place Animal Thing - chose an alphabet and take turns saying each of these four starting with your alphabet - if you are travelling in a group then its much more fun - you can add anything else you like in this list as well like Action, Fruit, Flower, Movie depending on the age group

3. World capitals - another great one especially for travelholics - trust me it won't take too long for the kids to start challenging the knowledge of the grown ups

4. Car games - if you are travelling in UK or in India there are tons of cars on the motor way and we've always played games of adding up the digits on the number plate or guess the make of the car from the logo or who can spot the first yellow car on the opposite side - be creative

5. Find me the way - while traveling in Europe where the directions are well marked on the roads, we've found mapping our path and then looking for directions together is fun (ofcourse don't completely depend on the judgement of your toddler!!)

 

I'll have to keep the details of the road trip for the next post. It was dichotomous to say the least with majestic architecture and dilapidating ruins, congested eateries and grand dinners, and food..... lots of food!!!

It's Genetic!!

 

There is no other way to explain the travel madness that runs in our family - at least in the female species. It's genetic!! I have very fond memories of travels made in my teenage including suffering the sweltering heat of May in Madhya Pradesh where we were reduced to eating onions and dousing our towels in water to cover our heads. Or the travel in Rajasthan where we hurtled down a steep slope in a tuk tuk at break neck speed to catch the folk dance program. Or the Karnataka road trip with my grand parents where I had the luxury of resting my head on grandma's lap on the back seat of the car and look at the swaying palm trees through the window, while the car traced the curves of the terrain.

With three women in the family my father has always been an unfortunate minority. Since then we've added two husbands and a son, however, when it comes to obsessive compulsive travelling, they are still a minority mentally. It has also helped that we've employed the divide and conquer rule where my mum has been given free reign on Asia while I explore Europe and my sister, the Americas.

Are we eccentric travellers - don't think so. We do the usual travel spots and photo ops and are not at all prosaic to admit it. This blog is a leisurely reminiscence of our experiences and a gentle nudge to humanity at large to become a .... travelholic!